I recently was at an inspection a couple of weeks ago and the inspector had this funky handheld tool that looked like a large Black and Decker stud finder. Looking closer it was showing a camera screen and had many cool buttons. Peter the inspector explained that it was an infrared camera and said that it is going to revolutionize the inspection industry.

This $6000 FLIR B50 (Forward Looking Infra-Red) comes with a 4 full day course on how to use it. Its main feature is to look for air leaks and heat loss. Great for energy audits.

It can also check the electrical box for hot breaker and wires, insulation deficiency in walls and ceiling (shows a numeric %), percent of heat lose, active water leaks and old water damage, and it will find good conditions for possible mould problems and more.

What it doesn’t do is find mould and see though glass (but will pick up reflective heat). It also won’t work if it’s the same temperature outside and inside. It does take pictures of the scene and the infra-red.

The implications of this device will certainly change what seems as a two dimensional inspection into a 3 dimensional one. The idea of heat loss and detection of water damage is a great advantage to a lot of buyers.

A regular inspection right now will run you about $425-$475, with this new tool involved it will probably raise it up to about $150 extra an inspection. This is what Peter is thinking anyway. H did tell me that his instructor’s camera is worth $60,000. Hmmm, I wonder how much he charges for inspections.

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? Would the mould be gone and not be a problem in the future?

After doing some research it was advised that extreme caution should be exercised when attempting to clean up a major mould problem. In fact, all the sites I read counseled against doing it yourself. Disturbing mould by touching, scrubbing and drying out could result in the spores aerosolizing and becoming part of the breathable air. This may cause ingestion and inhalation of potentially toxic mould spores which could lead to a variety of serious health effects.

What most of the companies do if it is a serious problem: After a full analysis, the professionals sanction off the rest of the house with plastic barriers. They wear full-face respirators, disposable suits, and use specialized equipment and ventilators to remove what is necessary. It is very important to minimize aerosolization of mould spores and to ensure that the contamination is not spread to other parts of the building.

So is my client going to buy the house with the mould problem? Is it worth it? Well that depends on the price he buys it for and all the costs and time involved. The problem with buying a house with a mould problem is that you can only see what is on the surface. Unless the owner is willing to let someone start opening up walls and other parts of the house, it may not be worth the “unknown” future circumstances. Meaning you might be getting more then you think. A couple of black dots of fungus might turn out to be more money and time than it’s worth.

So what is the solution? If the price seems right and the owner will allow a professional investigation by a certified mould inspector, you would have to decide whether or not the money spent on an inspection is worth it or not.

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What an Inspector does
A building inspection is important to know exactly what you are buying in terms of structure and health. You want to know what type of repairs need to be done now and repairs for the future. This way you can accurately budget your costs for the purchase and know what you are getting into. For more information on what inspectors do, please read Introduction to Home Inspections.

Usually an inspector costs a flat rate of $350 and up, depending on the driving distance and size of the structure. They arrive with their ladders, flashlights and tools to accurately assess each part of your future home. If they arrive in a suit and a tape recorder, thank them nicely and tell them that you have changed your mind.

You want your inspector to get “down and dirty”, so to speak, to find out all the details about the place. When you call around for quotes, ask them what do they do exactly, how is the report given to you and what it looks like.

After the inspection is completed, the inspector will usually give you an on the spot report of their findings. Ask them also when to expect the written report. They know that you are on a timeline and are usually quick about it. It shouldn’t take more then two days to receive the report.

In the promise to purchase the agent has written the days that you have agreed upon to get the inspection done. 7-10 days are standard. Then according to the clause, you have an extra 4 days to respond if you have concerns. IF you don’t, after (7-10 days) +4 days, you have automatically accepted this condition and it is waived. If you have found something to discuss, then act fast, the days run short quickly.

Renegotiating after the inspection
Normal wear and tear is usually what to expect when you are buying a house and there is no need for alarm, or even re-negotiation. However finding something that isn’t up to standards or detrimental to the house that has many dollars attached to it, you might want to re-think your position and walk away or re-negotiate

For pre-listing inspections, please visit: Pre-Listing Inpections

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As qualified Montreal Home Inspectors, we are trained to examine your potential new home and identify any problems it might have. Following the inspection, we give you a report describing each system of the house, any repairs needed, and the estimated costs of these repairs.

The home inspection is strictly visual; we only report on what we see. We do not use scientific equipment or engineering calculations. We do enter attics and crawl spaces and remove covers which are normally accessible for maintenance.

EXTERIOR
We’ll start with a walk around the exterior to ensure that your home is level. To confirm the home’s integrity, we look for cracks in the foundation and other signs of structural distress.

An inspection of the exterior components is next. Your home inspector will thoroughly check the condition of the siding, gutters, doors, windows, patios, driveways, walkways, and wall surfaces.

We always make a point to carefully inspect homemade decks and other do-it-yourself projects, which are more likely to contain deficiencies.

ROOF
Whenever possible, we climb up on the roof to make sure that the chimney, downspouts, skylights, shingles, and roof flashings are in good shape. Your home inspector will examine the chimney carefully to make sure that it is structurally sound.

While inspecting the roof, we look for areas vulnerable to water incursion and check those areas carefully during the interior home inspection.

If safety reasons exclude us from walking directly on the roof, such as rain, snow, steep slope, or the roofing material itself, the home inspector does an examination by climbing a ladder and using binoculars.

INTERIOR
On the inside of the home, we inspect the ceilings and walls to determine their quality and condition. Doors and windows are checked to make sure they function properly and are well sealed against weather conditions. An interior door can sometimes tell a story -for example, a door that shuts poorly may indicate that the structure has been moved.

The home inspector determines if the water pressure is satisfactory, and checks the condition of the plumbing fixtures and faucets.

In the basement

or crawlspace, the home inspector looks for any defects in the foundation or structure. Water intrusion is always a concern, so we check thoroughly for any evidence of leaks. As basements are often finished by their owners without professional advice, we check them carefully. Many older buildings have a crawlspace which is checked very carefully as many problems can lurk in the cobwebs.

HEATING SYSTEM
First, we evaluate the general condition of the heating system and make sure that heat is being distributed properly throughout the home. If the furnace or boiler is old, the home inspector may recommend that it be replaced. The inspector determines if there are any safety risks, such as a loose flue connection or proximity to combustible materials.

ELECTRICAL
Is the electrical system extensive enough for the home? To verify the capacity and condition of the electrical system, we will open and examine the system panel. The circuit-breaker (or fuse) box is examined to ensure that the service capacity is adequate and that the breakers and wires are suitably matched. If we find aluminum wiring, we advise the client and explain the known problems. After that, we test a representative number of outlets and switches to ensure that there are no wiring defects.

The interior and exterior lights and ceiling fans will also be tested. The home inspector always checks for safety hazards such as exposed wiring, and self-installed extension cord wiring. We pay special attention to the basement. Basements are often finished without the benefit of a professional electrician, making them more likely to contain problems.

INSPECTING THE ATTIC
We inspect all areas of the attic for problems such as structural defects, water infiltration, and insect infestation. We also check to make sure that the attic is well insulated and well ventilated – a key consideration in your heating costs. Although lack of insulation cannot necessarily be considered a defect, if that is the way the house was built, we will recommend an upgrade. Many other factors are checked including excessive moisture, improper installation of exhaust fan and plumbing vents, installation of ceiling pot lights, and chimney problems.

BRIEFING REPORT
Within thirty minutes of the home inspection, you will receive a detailed report describing each system of the home, any repairs needed, and the estimated costs of these repairs.

Step by step, your home inspector will take you through the report to make sure you are clear about the home’s strengths and weaknesses. At the end of the briefing, we guarantee that you will have a complete understanding of the condition of your prospective home.

CONCLUSION
Our service doesn’t stop with the end of the home inspection. We offer free telephone support both before and after you move to your new home.

We are committed to helping all of our Montreal clients make informed decisions on the maintenance of their new homes. To help with this, we provide several free home reference resources to our clients. Through Mose Home Inspection Services, you will have all of the resources that you need for home maintenance right when you need them.

This article is brought to you by Mose Home Inspection
You can reach them at 514-294-0705

Uneven Floors
Uneven floors are typical, particularly in older homes. Here is a trick to help distinguish between a typical home with character and a structural problem. If the floor sags to the middle of the home, it’s probably just a charming old home. Houses are like people, they sag in the middle when they get older. On the other hand, if the floor slopes towards an outside wall, there is a good chance that the house has a significant structural problems.

Leaning House
While no house is perfect, this is one area where you should be very careful. Take a look at the house from across the street. If the house appears to be leaning one way or the other, there may be a structural problem. It may help to line up a front corner of the house with the back corner of an adjacent house just for reference. The corners should be parallel. Stepping back from the house to take a look is always a good idea. It is easy to miss something major by standing too close to it! If there is a lean that is detectable by eye, don’t take any chances, get it checked out.

Horizontal Foundation Cracks are Bad
It is not uncommon to find cracks in the foundation. This goes for new houses as well as old ones. While there is a great deal of engineering that goes into “reading” these cracks, there is one rule that you should never forget. “Horizontal cracks are a problem”. Of course not all vertical cracks are acceptable, but they are generally not as serious as a horizontal crack.

Harmless Cracks
Shrinkage cracks in a new house: Most new foundations will develop small vertical cracks. These cracks are a result of the concrete shrinking as it cures. These cracks are about 1 /8 inch wide or less. They don’t affect the structure. The only concern is leakage. If you see small cracks in a new foundation, don’t panic. In fact, in a new home, some builders will pre-crack the foundation and fill the crack with flexible material.

Plaster Cracks
Few things are more misunderstood than plaster cracks on the inside of the house.
The following crack types are not generally related to structural movement:

• a small crack (less than 2mm) that follows the corner of the room where two walls meet
• small cracks that extend up from the upper corner of a door opening

The following cracks may be related to structural ovement

• Large cracks (larger than 2mm in width)
• Cracks that run diagonally across the wall
• Cracks on the interior finish that are in the same vicinity as cracks on the exterior of the house

This article is brought to you by Mose Home Inspection
You can reach them at 514-294-0705

To help you minimize the damage, reduce the chances of mold – and deal effectively with your insurance agent – Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation (CMHC) has a series of steps you can take if your home has experienced extensive water damage:

• First, call your insurance broker or agent and report the water damage within 24 hours or less, to allow for quick drying and repairs
• Next, hire a professional contractor to clean up the water and make repairs as soon as possible. The contractor reports to and is paid by you, but your insurance adjuster can make recommendations

As the work progresses, make sure the adjuster and contractor follow the best possible procedures to look after your concerns. A fast, thorough cleanup will help avoid mold growth and significantly reduce cleanup costs.

So when selecting a contractor, look for qualities like speed, competence in water cleanup practices and certification or training in water damage restoration and mold remediation.

Make sure the moisture source is stopped, and all wet areas are completely dry. Wet items that can’t be salvaged should be removed, and what can’t be removed must be dried quickly, preferably within 48 hours to minimize the growth of mold. Be sure all cavities and crawl spaces are dry. And confirm that no refinishing is done until the entire area is thoroughly dried. If you have mold growth, make sure it is removed safely by the contractor, and that there is no remaining mold anywhere in your house, including behind wallpaper, in areas adjacent to the mold growth or where water may have seeped (such as wall cavities, basement subfloors and crawl spaces), and under carpeting.

Finally, make sure that all repairs and cleaning have been completed thoroughly and properly before you tell your adjuster that you are satisfied.

For more information or a free copy of the “About Your House” fact sheet on Water Damage, Mold and House Insurance or other fact sheets on virtually every facet of owning, maintaining or renovating your home, ask CMHC at 1 800 668-2642. Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation (CMHC) is Canada’s national housing agency and a source of objective, reliable housing expertise.

This article is brought to you by Mose Home Inspection
You can reach them at 514-294-0705